An isolated repair involving 1 or 2 damaged asphalt roof shingles is usually an individual shingle replacement followed by resealing the surrounding tabs. A thick smear of roofing cement is not a permanent fix. Replacement works for limited damage, but leaks around chimneys, vents, valleys, skylights, or damaged roof decking usually need a professional roofer.

Roof Shingle Repair at a Glance

Problem Appropriate repair
One cracked, torn, or punctured shingle Replace the individual shingle
One missing shingle Install a matching replacement shingle
Lifted but intact tab Reseal it with compatible roofing cement
Several damaged shingles after a storm Have a roofer inspect the entire roof plane
Curling, buckling, widespread granule loss, or old shingles Arrange a professional inspection and discuss replacement
Leak near flashing, a chimney, vent, valley, or skylight Repair the flashing or underlying roof system, not only the shingle

This guide applies mainly to fiberglass asphalt shingles, including common three-tab and laminated architectural shingles. Wood shakes, slate, tile, and metal roofing require different repair methods.

Safety Comes First

Roof work is dangerous. The National Roofing Contractors Association recommends checking storm damage from the ground and using a professional for closer assessment and repairs. Do not climb onto a roof that is wet, icy, unstable, steep, or visibly damaged.

If you use a ladder:

  • Place it on firm, level ground.
  • Keep the area around it clear.
  • Secure it so it cannot slide or shift.
  • Face the ladder while climbing and keep at least one hand on it.
  • Do not carry tools in your hands while climbing.
  • Do not work during rain, strong wind, or lightning.
  • Use suitable fall protection for elevated roof work.

OSHA recommends positioning a leaning ladder so its base is approximately one-quarter of the working length from the supporting wall. OSHA also requires ladders to be placed on stable surfaces and secured against accidental movement in construction settings.

What You Need to Replace a Roof Shingle

Gather:

  • Matching replacement asphalt shingles
  • A flat pry bar or shingle-removal tool
  • Hammer
  • Roofing nails specified by the shingle manufacturer
  • Compatible asphalt roofing cement or shingle adhesive
  • Caulking gun or small trowel
  • Work gloves
  • Slip-resistant footwear
  • Ladder and suitable fall-protection equipment
  • Bucket or tool pouch

Use the same shingle type and, when possible, the same manufacturer and color. New shingles may not match an older roof exactly because the existing shingles have weathered and changed color. Spare shingles kept from the original installation are usually the best match.

How to Replace a Damaged Roof Shingle

1. Confirm That the Shingle Is the Problem

Look for:

  • A missing shingle
  • A cracked or split shingle
  • A puncture or hole
  • A tab that has torn away
  • Exposed roofing nails
  • Shingle granules collecting in the gutters
  • Shingles that lifted during high winds

Check the attic and ceiling for moisture. Water can travel along the roof deck before it appears indoors, so a ceiling stain may not be directly below the damaged shingle.

If the leak is near a chimney, plumbing vent, skylight, wall, valley, or roof edge, the problem may be flashing or underlayment rather than the visible shingle. GAF identifies damaged underlayment and deteriorated flashing as possible causes of attic leaks.

2. Break the Seal on the Damaged Shingle

Carefully slide a flat pry bar under the tabs of the damaged shingle. Separate the adhesive strip without tearing the shingles above it.

You may also need to lift the shingle course immediately above the damaged one. Its nails may overlap or hold the upper edge of the shingle you are removing.

Work slowly. Asphalt shingles are more flexible in warm weather and more brittle in cold weather. Forcing a cold or aged shingle can damage the adjacent shingles.

3. Remove the Roofing Nails

Lift the damaged shingle enough to expose its fasteners. Use the pry bar to loosen and pull out the nails.

Remove every nail holding the damaged shingle. Also remove any nearby nails that would prevent the replacement from sliding into position.

Do not leave old nail heads protruding beneath the replacement. They can stop the new shingle from lying flat and may give water a path into the roof.

4. Slide Out the Damaged Shingle

After removing the nails, pull the damaged shingle straight out. Avoid disturbing the shingles above and beside it.

Inspect the exposed roof deck and underlayment. Stop and contact a roofing professional if you find:

  • Rotten or soft wood decking
  • A large hole
  • Wet or deteriorated underlayment
  • Extensive mold or water damage
  • Multiple missing or displaced shingles
  • Structural movement

A new shingle will not repair damaged decking or a failed underlayment layer.

5. Position the Replacement Shingle

Slide the new shingle into the open space. Align it with the surrounding shingles and the course below it.

The replacement should lie flat, with its lower edge aligned with adjacent shingles. Do not force it into place if its profile, exposure, thickness, or locking design does not match the existing roof.

For laminated shingles, follow the product's nail-placement instructions. Nail locations and fastening requirements can vary by shingle design, roof slope, wind region, and local code.

6. Nail the Replacement Shingle Correctly

Fasten the new shingle according to the manufacturer's recommended nail pattern. Roofing nails should:

  • Be placed in the designated nailing area
  • Sit flush with the shingle surface
  • Not be driven too deeply
  • Not be left sticking up
  • Not be placed where the nail head remains exposed
  • Avoid cracks, knots, and weak areas in the roof deck

ARMA states that most asphalt strip shingles require at least 4 nails per full-size shingle. The required number can differ by product and installation conditions, so follow the manufacturer's instructions and local building requirements.

For a repair, use the same nail type and placement pattern as the original roof when you can identify them.

7. Reseal the Shingle Tabs

Apply a small amount of compatible asphalt roofing cement beneath each loosened tab. Press the tab firmly into place.

Use only the amount specified by the shingle manufacturer. Excess cement can run down the shingle face, cause blistering, soften some underlayments, and leave visible stains. Manufacturer guidance commonly recommends small adhesive dabs rather than a thick, continuous bead.

Hand-sealing is especially useful when:

  • The weather is cold.
  • The roof has a steep slope.
  • The sealant strip is dirty.
  • The repair disturbed surrounding tabs.
  • Wind broke the original seal.

Do not spread loose granules into roofing cement instead of replacing a damaged shingle. GAF states that this practice, sometimes called "sugaring," is not a permanent repair.

How to Repair a Lifted Shingle Tab

A lifted tab may be repairable without replacing the entire shingle.

  1. Lift the tab carefully.
  2. Remove dirt, leaves, and loose debris from beneath it.
  3. Apply a small amount of compatible roofing cement beneath the tab.
  4. Press the tab flat.
  5. Hold it in place until it bonds.

Replace the shingle if the tab is torn, badly creased, brittle, missing, or no longer lies flat. ARMA identifies re-adhering loose tabs and replacing a small number of missing or broken shingles as common asphalt shingle repairs.

How to Handle a Roof Leak Before Permanent Repairs

If water is entering the house, limit the interior damage first:

  • Place a container beneath the leak.
  • Move furniture and electronics away from the affected area.
  • Keep clear if the ceiling is bulging with trapped water, and contact a professional.
  • Photograph the interior and exterior damage.
  • Arrange a professional inspection as soon as possible.

A tarp can provide temporary protection, but it must be secured without causing more damage. Do not nail a tarp directly through intact shingles. GAF warns that shingles penetrated by tarp fasteners may need replacement. Caulking the resulting holes is not a permanent repair.

Roofing cement may temporarily cover a small puncture while you obtain proper materials. ARMA states that temporary cement repairs should not be treated as a long-term solution.

When Should You Hire a Roofing Contractor?

Hire a qualified roofing contractor when:

  • The roof is steep, high, wet, or difficult to access.
  • Storm damage affects more than a few shingles.
  • The roof has widespread granule loss.
  • Shingles are curling, buckling, brittle, or deteriorating across a large area.
  • The roof deck feels soft or spongy.
  • Water is leaking around flashing, vents, chimneys, valleys, or skylights.
  • The cause of the leak is unclear.
  • The roof has multiple layers or previous repairs.
  • You need to replace ridge caps, starter shingles, flashing, or underlayment.
  • The roof may be covered by an insurance claim or manufacturer warranty.

GAF notes that a few damaged shingles on a relatively new roof may be repairable. Broader damage may make roof replacement more suitable.

What to Do After Storm Damage

Before making non-emergency repairs:

  1. Photograph the damage from the ground and from inside the attic.
  2. Record the storm date and the date you discovered the damage.
  3. Contact your insurance company if the damage may be covered.
  4. Check the shingle manufacturer's warranty requirements.
  5. Delay permanent repairs if the insurer or manufacturer needs to document the damage first.

Warranty requirements vary. For example, GAF advises claimants to provide notice and supporting documentation before repairing or replacing products when possible.

The Practical Answer

For 1 or 2 damaged asphalt shingles, replace the affected shingles, follow the manufacturer's nail pattern, and reseal any disturbed tabs. If the leak involves flashing, underlayment, roof decking, or several shingles, treat it as a roof-system problem and arrange a professional inspection.